2008

Five months ago I would have overtly broadcasted the positive effects of China hosting the Summer Olympics and would have assured others that 2008 would be a transformative year for this rising Asian power as it dazzled the world with its rapid economic success and astonishing hospitality – a coming out party if you will. Although my convictions have not publicly wavered since, I must admit that in these turbulent months I have developed reservations and a sense of skepticism and uncertainly that is uncharacteristic to my time in Beijing. In 2008, in the run up to the Olympics, China has experienced a crippling snow storm followed by a virtual collapse in infrastructure and telecommunications, violent riots in Tibet, protests along almost every leg of the international torch relay, a hand-mouth-foot virus hospitalizing thousands of rural children, and a massive earthquake in Sichuan Province killing at least 70,000 Chinese and potentially reeking devastating economic and social consequences. In addition, soaring inflation, a major stock market correction, and a slowdown in exports caused by a US recession are all threatening the financial and economic stability of this country. I initially thought 2008, a year ending in eight (a number associated with “prosperity” according to Chinese superstition), the 30th year anniversary of Deng Xiaoping’s economic reforms, the Olympic year, was intended to be absolutely glorious for the Chinese civilization…. what happened?

Unfortunately, Scott McClellan is too busy signing books so we may have to wait until after it's too late (again) to get the answers. Perhaps 2008 has already thrown everything it could at the Chinese, and from today the Dalai Lama and the Communist Party begin a series of “meaningful” dialogues, the Olympics is a huge success and the world economy gets back on track - and this post will capture a moment of superfluous anxiety during my stay in Beijing. However, the Chinese may direct their newly energized nationalism to strike down foreign dissidents in Beijing (captured by CNN), a Xinjiang terrorist may seek vengeance at an Olympic event, Chinese journalists may turn against the government if they are not permitted to the same amount of openness as they have been granted during the aftermath of the quake, or more likely than not, the economy stumbles and social unrest escalates to the brink of revolution. Either way, it is an exciting time to live here and I would be deeply depressed if I was anywhere else.

Lucky for me, I have a one year working visa and will be able to observe the whole show without worrying about getting the boot from the authorities like everybody else. Because of new visa restrictions, many expats living in Beijing will have to go home for at least three months. If you don’t have a working visa (only given by multi-national companies and those well organized and connected small and medium sized enterprises) you are out of luck. Chinese embassies all over the world have shortened the visiting period for tourists to 30 days, have cancelled all multi-entry visas, and have made it difficult (and in some places impossible) to renew visas in embassies outside your mother country – basically, no more visa trips to Hong Kong and Macau. Scores of teachers, musicians, artists, free-lance writers, bar and restaurant owners, and many of my friends are being forced to leave the country (and many won’t come back). Businessmen in Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia are furious that they now have to apply and reapply every time they want to visit their factories – sometimes twice a week. My brother, when applying for a tourist visa to visit me, will have to show the consulate in New York an invitation letter from me, a copy of his plane ticket, and a copy of my residency permit (since he will be staying in my apartment and not a hotel) – the good old days of walking in with 60 buck and 2 passport sized photos are over.

When asked about these newest restrictions, the Chinese public relations minister played dumb and simply said “we welcome all visitors”. The government may be trying to flush out all the foreign free-thinkers (with loud English-speaking mouths) who haven't gone corporate yet and are not afraid of communicating their opinions and experiences to the visitors. Migrant workers are being expelled because they look poor and dirty. We are being expelled because we know too many of China's secrets and lies and with the use of our tongue, we could tarnish China's image in the eyes of first-time visitors.

In my opinion, the government is shooting themselves in the foot. Besides the masses of angry business investors, the hundreds of peeved cultural organizations and publishing groups, and the millions of saddened students that have to say goodbye to their English teachers, the more indirect repercussions are much more harmful. What this overly-confident simple-minded authoritarian government doesn't realize is how badly they need us - expats. If you have been reading the newspapers lately, you would notice that the international community and China are not on particularly great terms. It seems that the only people defending China and trying to help others understand China and the Chinese people are those who live or have lived in this incredible country. We know China the best, can speak Chinese and are always happy acting as the liaison – we want to show people why we love China so much. We are a vital and intricate part in this country's diplomatic relationships with the rest of the world and unless they are preparing for a war, there is no logical reason for deporting those that can help you.

Why is there so much hostility to foreigners who have invested their lives and money in Beijing? When I asked Judy, the owner of a Mexican restaurant that has been in Beijing for 20 years and who recently found out that she has couldn’t get a visa to stay for the Olympics, see simply said “politics sweetie.” She's just glad that her restaurant will not be shut down like other newer foreign joints for not fulfilling ambiguous health standards – 20 years of guanxi (relationships) means the local police don't pick on you anymore.

2008 will certainly continue to be a rollercoaster ride with fanfare and protest, passion and confrontation and has been and will continue to be an overwhelming experience with an unpredictable outcome – brimming with a sense of anxiety and excitement – like a book you can never put down. And for the first time in my life, I feel like I'm in the right place at the right time and despite my newly found reservations in China's future I would be lying if I said I wasn't content.

“I am not afraid of tomorrow, for I have seen yesterday and I love today.” – William Allen White