With the opening ceremony for the Olympics only one day away I thought I should write a brief post. What is the situation on the ground. As of right now my building is surrounded by Chinese SWAT, Bush will be arriving this evening, pollution looms over the city, traffic is horrid, protesters are already up to their stunts (2 Britons and 2 Americans scalled an electrical line to wave a Free Tibet banner), I have been harrassed constantly about my residency permit, and the police dogs are all over the city.
Security is tighter I have ever seen it and many diplomats are even comparing it to war zones they have lived in like Kosovo or even Iraq. Many of my favorite bars are closed because of "security reasons" and outside seating has been banned to prevent confrontations between foreigners and locals. Nerves are high, everybody has basically arrived , rain is in the forecast, and it's completely chaotic.
I thought Beijing was going to be a little more prepaared than this. Perhaps the official's only measure of success is not allowing terrorists to ruin the Games. Pollution, traffic, bad PR from throwing dissendents in jail or blocking websites, a no-fun Olympics - these matters although troubling to me do not seem particulary threatening to the organizers.
I am so anxious to see how the Games turn out. How the media reports it. And how the Dream Team performs. I recently went on a ticket buying spree, picking up tickets for Archery, Weighlifting, Boxing, Handball, Baseball, Field Hockey, and the last stretch of the Women's Marathon (as long as it's not delayed because of poor air quality.)
I have been typing this stream of consciousness for about 5 minutes now and its allready 6pm. Time to go home and get the party started. No work tomorrow. Citywide holiday for all. Rock on and lets see how this movie ends.
(I will talk to ya'll after the end of Olympics since I will be hosting family and friends and mainly because I will be having to much fun to post). One World One Dream --- ha ha!!!!
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Shenyang
Finally, a free afternoon to do nothing but relax and update this Beijing blog that is becoming increasingly more difficult to sustain – don’t expect another post any time in the near future. During the last two weeks, my time has been fully occupied, spending a few days each week on different business trips to the city of Shenyang.
Shenyang is the provincial capital of Liaoning Province and the transportation hub for Northeast China. This city of 7 million people was once the “Industrial Center” during China’s industrialization movement in the 1950’s focusing on steel production and chemical processing. After Deng Xioaping’s opening reforms, as the nation began to privatize, most of the state-owned enterprises in heavy industry went bankrupt in the region. This rust-belt city suffered for some time until the central government launched a set of initiatives and policy reforms to help “revitalize the Northeast” This “Pittsburg of China” is currently experiencing tremendous growth as MNCs expand into the city and as the disposable incomes of those living in the metropolitan area climb at an astounding rate.
My job is to research about Shenyang’s real estate markets (retail, residential, and office) and in doing so I have absorbed an incredible amount of information about the city. For example, Shenyang has become the retail hub for northeast China with currently more luxury and high-end retail space than Beijing. Since 90% of the companies in Shenyang are domestic firms that prioritize price of office space over quality, the majority of office buildings are crap – ugly low Grade B strata-titled towers. However, considering that all quality space is basically occupied, every developer and their mother has a Grade A office project in the works. And on the residential side of things, huge complexes are being erected to the south of the Hunnan River that bisects the city, where land is cheaper and where the Olympic Stadium (for soccer preliminaries) has been built. This second-tier city is going through a transformation that Beijing experienced maybe only 5 years ago. For someone like me, and especially for someone in real estate, this dynamic and fast-paced city is rather exhilarating. I prefer not to elaborate much further on property market activity and trends in Shenyang (mainly because that’s what I write about all week) but rather a few observations I made during my stay.
First of all, Shenyang gets a bad rap throughout China for its notorious organized crime syndicates and corrupt political leaders. In the past, I had heard of numerous shady business deals that were rooted in Shenyang, I had met a group of Shenyang gangster’s during a drunken escapade in Sanlitun (Beijing’s bar street), and before I left for the airport, my colleague advised me not to look at anybody directly in the eye unless I was indeed looking for trouble. I was expecting the worst… and was delighted to find the exact opposite. My encounters in Shenyang left me with a positive impression of the laobaixing (ordiary folk) of the city – in fact, they were friendlier and more hospitable than their Beijing counterparts. I spent a lot of time wondering the streets alone, exploring many run-down neighborhoods, chatting with old men playing chess, receiving smiles from xiaomaibu (convenient store) girls, and discussing my adoration for Shenyang with taxi drivers. One night, I stumbled upon two guys running a hole-in-the-wall chuanr (meat on a stick) joint, and because I was starving, I pulled up a stool and ordered 10 mutton chuanr. An hour and a few beers later, I found myself in a heated discussion over China’s new visa restrictions, Chinese soccer, and the pros and cons of living in Singapore. Before leaving, I told them that I would stop by during my next trip to the city and they said that a free bottle of Zero Beer (Shenyang’s local brew) would be waiting for me.
Shenyang may not be as international or as culturally dynamic as Beijing and thus the nightlife for an expat like myself may be limited to chuanr stands. However, with a bit of investigation, we were able to find one bar street – called XiTa Jie. This area, known as little Korea to the locals, is filled with Korean restaurants, Korean style bars (soju bars) and room saloons (KTVs where you can buy a girl for a night). This scene filled with neon lights and “girls for hire” did not surprise me at all. As I have mentioned before in my posts about Seoul and Dalian (another city with a high Korean population), Korean business men do not have any moral qualms with objectifying women as long as these women are not married. Korean wives, on the other hand, are expected to remain tolerant of this male-dominated practice which is deemed acceptable in a traditional society where ideology is focused around filial piety (obey thy husband, thy father, thy elder).
Lastly, I would like to say that Shenyang reinvigorated my love for life in China. Overshadowed by pollution, westernization, and of course Big Brother, Beijing has lost much of its glamour over the years. I came to China to learn Chinese, see the country modernize, and allow myself to grow with a global perspective. I believe that I have been successful in accomplishing much of this to a certain extent, but I can also see Beijing slowing down economically and beginning to plateau as a modern Asian city, too many people can speak English, and the familiarity of Beijing and its newly embraced sense of modernity is making life in Beijing somewhat monotonous. Perhaps, I’m just being a melancholy grouch today, but I am cogitating more and more how wonderful it would be to relocate to a second-tier city, where I can feel like I am in China again and find myself surrounded by the unfamiliar. Clearly, I am still at an age where personal discovery and free will are basic drivers that shape my existence – and while “stability and security” are still vying to dominate this approach to life, I should take advantage of my youth by maintaining a simple path towards personal enlightenment.
In other words, I am never complacent.
Shenyang is the provincial capital of Liaoning Province and the transportation hub for Northeast China. This city of 7 million people was once the “Industrial Center” during China’s industrialization movement in the 1950’s focusing on steel production and chemical processing. After Deng Xioaping’s opening reforms, as the nation began to privatize, most of the state-owned enterprises in heavy industry went bankrupt in the region. This rust-belt city suffered for some time until the central government launched a set of initiatives and policy reforms to help “revitalize the Northeast” This “Pittsburg of China” is currently experiencing tremendous growth as MNCs expand into the city and as the disposable incomes of those living in the metropolitan area climb at an astounding rate.
My job is to research about Shenyang’s real estate markets (retail, residential, and office) and in doing so I have absorbed an incredible amount of information about the city. For example, Shenyang has become the retail hub for northeast China with currently more luxury and high-end retail space than Beijing. Since 90% of the companies in Shenyang are domestic firms that prioritize price of office space over quality, the majority of office buildings are crap – ugly low Grade B strata-titled towers. However, considering that all quality space is basically occupied, every developer and their mother has a Grade A office project in the works. And on the residential side of things, huge complexes are being erected to the south of the Hunnan River that bisects the city, where land is cheaper and where the Olympic Stadium (for soccer preliminaries) has been built. This second-tier city is going through a transformation that Beijing experienced maybe only 5 years ago. For someone like me, and especially for someone in real estate, this dynamic and fast-paced city is rather exhilarating. I prefer not to elaborate much further on property market activity and trends in Shenyang (mainly because that’s what I write about all week) but rather a few observations I made during my stay.
First of all, Shenyang gets a bad rap throughout China for its notorious organized crime syndicates and corrupt political leaders. In the past, I had heard of numerous shady business deals that were rooted in Shenyang, I had met a group of Shenyang gangster’s during a drunken escapade in Sanlitun (Beijing’s bar street), and before I left for the airport, my colleague advised me not to look at anybody directly in the eye unless I was indeed looking for trouble. I was expecting the worst… and was delighted to find the exact opposite. My encounters in Shenyang left me with a positive impression of the laobaixing (ordiary folk) of the city – in fact, they were friendlier and more hospitable than their Beijing counterparts. I spent a lot of time wondering the streets alone, exploring many run-down neighborhoods, chatting with old men playing chess, receiving smiles from xiaomaibu (convenient store) girls, and discussing my adoration for Shenyang with taxi drivers. One night, I stumbled upon two guys running a hole-in-the-wall chuanr (meat on a stick) joint, and because I was starving, I pulled up a stool and ordered 10 mutton chuanr. An hour and a few beers later, I found myself in a heated discussion over China’s new visa restrictions, Chinese soccer, and the pros and cons of living in Singapore. Before leaving, I told them that I would stop by during my next trip to the city and they said that a free bottle of Zero Beer (Shenyang’s local brew) would be waiting for me.
Shenyang may not be as international or as culturally dynamic as Beijing and thus the nightlife for an expat like myself may be limited to chuanr stands. However, with a bit of investigation, we were able to find one bar street – called XiTa Jie. This area, known as little Korea to the locals, is filled with Korean restaurants, Korean style bars (soju bars) and room saloons (KTVs where you can buy a girl for a night). This scene filled with neon lights and “girls for hire” did not surprise me at all. As I have mentioned before in my posts about Seoul and Dalian (another city with a high Korean population), Korean business men do not have any moral qualms with objectifying women as long as these women are not married. Korean wives, on the other hand, are expected to remain tolerant of this male-dominated practice which is deemed acceptable in a traditional society where ideology is focused around filial piety (obey thy husband, thy father, thy elder).
Lastly, I would like to say that Shenyang reinvigorated my love for life in China. Overshadowed by pollution, westernization, and of course Big Brother, Beijing has lost much of its glamour over the years. I came to China to learn Chinese, see the country modernize, and allow myself to grow with a global perspective. I believe that I have been successful in accomplishing much of this to a certain extent, but I can also see Beijing slowing down economically and beginning to plateau as a modern Asian city, too many people can speak English, and the familiarity of Beijing and its newly embraced sense of modernity is making life in Beijing somewhat monotonous. Perhaps, I’m just being a melancholy grouch today, but I am cogitating more and more how wonderful it would be to relocate to a second-tier city, where I can feel like I am in China again and find myself surrounded by the unfamiliar. Clearly, I am still at an age where personal discovery and free will are basic drivers that shape my existence – and while “stability and security” are still vying to dominate this approach to life, I should take advantage of my youth by maintaining a simple path towards personal enlightenment.
In other words, I am never complacent.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Stupid and Sad
Below is a post I found on a popular blog about China. It discusses the effects of China's new visa policy which has been used to deport most expats and limit visitors to the country. Clearly the author has very little respect for the cultural significance of free-lance writers and English teachers, but his portrayal of how the new visa policy is distrupting manufacturers in China is interesting... and alarming. Another reason why I am not a fan of the Olympics.
The China visa issue is now becoming more unpleasant than a stroll on a Qingdao beach (who said it wouldn't be a 'Green Olympics'?). We're not that bothered about the clear out of wannabe freelance hacks dodging tax, or the legion of Eurotrash and American trustafarians who've been slumming it in Shanghai and Beijing for years on dad's money. And we're certainly not bothered about the rumours that all chamber of commerce staff in Shanghai are having their visas denied - AmScam, BritScam, EUScam, etc. outside of Beijing (which recognises only one office per organisation and that is in Beijing), which have always technically been illegal. True or not, the world will go on without AmScam or BritScam we suspect... Indeed we suspect it will be a better place.
The real adverse effects of the visa crackdown will be felt and suffered by Chinese people and businesses. Consider the following problems we've encountered in the last couple of weeks:
A number of brands manufacturing in China need to place Xmas orders. They have policies that independent factory inspections must occur to ensure working conditions etc as part of their CSR. They don't use local inspectors given the problems with those and formula box ticking scams. However, their inspectors cannot get a visa, and so cannot approve the factory and so the contract cannot be awarded. While Beijing may think the Olympics is worth all this, the fact is that the West cannot move Xmas to late February. Even if (and there are no guarantees) things return to normal in September, it will be too late for these firms who need to get gear on boats in October for the holidays. Now many are scrambling to find capacity in Vietnam, Bangladesh, etc., while any number of Chinese garment manufacturers (two thirds of whom operate on margins of less than 1.5% already) will go under.
A number of companies with production runs already underway are having to stall or delay work as they cannot get visas for their Quality Assurance (QA) staff to enter China. Few are willing to let 500,000 leather jackets be produced without getting someone to do some QA, so delays are occurring, meaning factories will get paid late or have orders cancelled. In Hong Kong last week, Access Asia was offered US$1,000 for every referral of a qualified, experienced China-based QA person we could find as desperation sets in.
Sourcers are finding visas problematic. Canton Fair this year was a bust, and now major sourcing centres such as Yiwu and Wenzhou are empty and local traders are disgruntled as they can't get deal volume as in the past due to regular customers being denied visas.
Several language training companies we know (the sort that do specialist corporate language training so all staff can do their jobs better and remain connected with the rest of the world) cannot get visas for their trainers to travel in and run classes - contracts lost, staff not receiving training.
All of the visa problems above are of course not about twenty-something foreigners hanging out in Shanghai bars, shonky English teachers boltholing in China or tax dodging. This sort of stuff will ultimately force business failures, job losses and, ultimately, disgruntlement. Traders we talked to at Wenzhou and Yiwu recently agreed with us that none of this was worth it in the name of a couple of weeks of minority sports.
A major fall out will be that people who have talked about moving production to other countries for some time are now actually having to do it to meet deadlines. Smart manufacturers in those countries are offering keen prices and will go all out to do a good job - they know this is their moment in the sun, and a chance to win serious business away from China. For many brands (once they have made the move, and if a good job is done) the inclination will be not to bother to go through the process of moving production back to China all over again. Whether China wins the Olympics or not, the long lasting fall out from these silly Games will be serious and terminal for a lot of business people as a significant percentage of business moves elsewhere and doesn't come back once the Olympics are over.
The fact is that many good manufacturers have survived and absorbed energy costs, rising transport costs, high input and commodity costs, soaring freight costs, rising wage bills and new labour laws (not to mention tough western companies looking for cheap, cheap prices). But they may not be able to survive the actions of the visa issuing department. Stupid and sad.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Some Highlights
Well, let me just say that it has been a crazy few weeks packed with work, athletic contests, and a slew of social events. Clearly, I am enjoying my time here in Beijing, allowing me very little free time to update this blog – so it goes. Instead of focusing on any particular event or theme (which seems to be my style of posting) I will now give you the highlight reel of the last three weeks in chronological order...
Obama Fundraiser. I am a news junkie and during the recent primary season, I have been following the latest on each presidential candidate through an array of online media outlets including Youtube, NYTimes, CNN, Politico, and of course Drudge Report. I am also a staunch Obama supporter, having already contributed money to his campaign back in February. When I heard that two of his foreign policy advisers were hosting a fundraiser here in Beijing, I could not resist. This American-only event was held in a club at a high-end residential complex called the Embassy House featuring a band, an open bar, imported treats like hummus and Tostitos, and an outside patio dominated by a grizzly man in Red Sox hat grilling hotdogs and barbeque ribs by the dozens. It felt like home. Obama’s advisors spoke briefly followed by 30 minutes of Q&A. Most of what was said concerning policy was already known to me (and of course diplomatic answers were given when asked about Obama’s approach to China), however, I found it rather motivating when they gave personal accounts about how they were inspired to join up with Barack following his 2004 Democratic convention speech. These ex-Bill Clinton foreign policy advisors exuded hope for our country and this enthusiasm was gleefully embraced by over two hundred Americans living and studying in Beijing. I doubt that that will be the last $25 donation I make before November.
Birthday Bash. My birthday was celebrated in proper fashion: a mix of good friends, Korean barbeque, and countless pitchers of green tea and whiskey. I suppose I should stop treating every birthday like it’s my 21st (for my liver’s sake), however, in Chinese tradition every birthday that falls on your Chinese Zodiac year (occurring once every twelve years) should call for a special celebration. I am a rat, 2008 is the year of the rat, I am not 12 nor am I 36… if you can’t guess how old I am please go back to school. All in all, the party was marvelous in every way and I have many to thank for that, especially my girlfriend, who also treated me to a lovely birthday dinner the following week at a restaurant called Dali Courtyard, a hidden gem in a random hutong serving authentic and rather delightful Yunnan cuisine.
Lax Tourney. As you may or may not know from a previous blog, I belong to a men’s lacrosse league here in Beijing. We practice every Sunday morning and sometimes Thursday evenings and although we play for the love of the game and the fulfillment of camaraderie, we always talk about winning the Beijing Cup that has taken place every June for the past 6 years. This year, this weekend tournament was attended by a Japanese team, a Hong Kong Team, two Korean teams, a Chinese team (groomed by us), an under-19 California All-star team, and of course our team, the laxpats (lacrosse expats). Corresponding girls’ teams also contested on adjacent fields. Historically, our greatest challengers have been the American teams and Japanese teams – the Japanese are outstanding players and the Japanese expats on our team, including the goalie, were major assets to our squad. In fact, because of the depth on our team which included three ex-national-team players (from America, Canada, and Japan), we found ourselves overpowering every team during the first day of competition - granted we were playing in the blistering heat and many of the younger players on the other teams were suffering from jet lag, Chinese food, and Beijing smog. On the other hand, many of our guys are balding out-of-shape cigarette smokers, who preferred drinking beer on the sidelines to water. After 4 forty minute games throughout Saturday, our bodies were in complete shock, our feet were covered in blisters, and our bare shoulders were raw from the sun (I currently have the world’s worst farmer tan). On Sunday, we easily beat the Japanese team in the morning and because the fields were out far in West Beijing and we were only team without a nearby hotel, we had no choice but to find something to do for six hours until the championship game. Instead of burning alive in the sun, we spend the whole afternoon chilling in KFC followed by hanging out in the neighborhood pool club relaxing in the water and making fun of the Chinese men in Speedos – we clearly took the championship seriously. After a full 60 minutes of lacrosse against the California kids, we emerged victorious – winning the Beijing Cup for the first time ever. By the end of the weekend, my body was completely numb, my skin was peeling, and my urine was dark yellow – it was the longest, most exhausting yet most exhilarating weekend I’ve had in a long time. *Sigh*
Great Wall Rave. Last weekend, I attended the annual Great Wall Party that usually draws a crowd of over three to four hundred eccentric young Beijing expats looking for a crazy night at an unconventional venue. Imagine the Great Wall, a beach, a dance party, techno music combined with all the sinful happenings of today’s youth fused together for one night of insidious bliss. Personally, I had more fun pre-partying on the four hour bus ride on the way up defined by karaoke, baijiu (Chinese liquor) guzzling, and random stops at rest stops with enormous neon signs that said “TOILET”. At the beach (where the Great Wall ends) I vaguely remember hotdogs, blue face paint, and a monsoon type rain storm – all other disreputable details I may have witnessed in this haven of hedonistic havoc will not be disclosed on this blog. It was a blast, but let’s just say that I’m glad to be back in reality.
Not Ready. Yesterday, about to get on the subway, a security woman said something to me (in Chinese) and pointed at the X-ray machine indicating that they wanted to check my bag for explosives or other harmful materials. I smiled (already late for work) and walked past her. Beefing up security seems useless if dangerous folk could voluntarily opt out of the screening process. A little while later, about to get off the metro, I and my fellow commuters were stuck in our subway while it took 10 minutes for the driver to figure out how to open the doors. People were so mad that some threatened to break down the door. Is Beijing prepared for the Olympics? Ha.
Obama Fundraiser. I am a news junkie and during the recent primary season, I have been following the latest on each presidential candidate through an array of online media outlets including Youtube, NYTimes, CNN, Politico, and of course Drudge Report. I am also a staunch Obama supporter, having already contributed money to his campaign back in February. When I heard that two of his foreign policy advisers were hosting a fundraiser here in Beijing, I could not resist. This American-only event was held in a club at a high-end residential complex called the Embassy House featuring a band, an open bar, imported treats like hummus and Tostitos, and an outside patio dominated by a grizzly man in Red Sox hat grilling hotdogs and barbeque ribs by the dozens. It felt like home. Obama’s advisors spoke briefly followed by 30 minutes of Q&A. Most of what was said concerning policy was already known to me (and of course diplomatic answers were given when asked about Obama’s approach to China), however, I found it rather motivating when they gave personal accounts about how they were inspired to join up with Barack following his 2004 Democratic convention speech. These ex-Bill Clinton foreign policy advisors exuded hope for our country and this enthusiasm was gleefully embraced by over two hundred Americans living and studying in Beijing. I doubt that that will be the last $25 donation I make before November.
Birthday Bash. My birthday was celebrated in proper fashion: a mix of good friends, Korean barbeque, and countless pitchers of green tea and whiskey. I suppose I should stop treating every birthday like it’s my 21st (for my liver’s sake), however, in Chinese tradition every birthday that falls on your Chinese Zodiac year (occurring once every twelve years) should call for a special celebration. I am a rat, 2008 is the year of the rat, I am not 12 nor am I 36… if you can’t guess how old I am please go back to school. All in all, the party was marvelous in every way and I have many to thank for that, especially my girlfriend, who also treated me to a lovely birthday dinner the following week at a restaurant called Dali Courtyard, a hidden gem in a random hutong serving authentic and rather delightful Yunnan cuisine.
Lax Tourney. As you may or may not know from a previous blog, I belong to a men’s lacrosse league here in Beijing. We practice every Sunday morning and sometimes Thursday evenings and although we play for the love of the game and the fulfillment of camaraderie, we always talk about winning the Beijing Cup that has taken place every June for the past 6 years. This year, this weekend tournament was attended by a Japanese team, a Hong Kong Team, two Korean teams, a Chinese team (groomed by us), an under-19 California All-star team, and of course our team, the laxpats (lacrosse expats). Corresponding girls’ teams also contested on adjacent fields. Historically, our greatest challengers have been the American teams and Japanese teams – the Japanese are outstanding players and the Japanese expats on our team, including the goalie, were major assets to our squad. In fact, because of the depth on our team which included three ex-national-team players (from America, Canada, and Japan), we found ourselves overpowering every team during the first day of competition - granted we were playing in the blistering heat and many of the younger players on the other teams were suffering from jet lag, Chinese food, and Beijing smog. On the other hand, many of our guys are balding out-of-shape cigarette smokers, who preferred drinking beer on the sidelines to water. After 4 forty minute games throughout Saturday, our bodies were in complete shock, our feet were covered in blisters, and our bare shoulders were raw from the sun (I currently have the world’s worst farmer tan). On Sunday, we easily beat the Japanese team in the morning and because the fields were out far in West Beijing and we were only team without a nearby hotel, we had no choice but to find something to do for six hours until the championship game. Instead of burning alive in the sun, we spend the whole afternoon chilling in KFC followed by hanging out in the neighborhood pool club relaxing in the water and making fun of the Chinese men in Speedos – we clearly took the championship seriously. After a full 60 minutes of lacrosse against the California kids, we emerged victorious – winning the Beijing Cup for the first time ever. By the end of the weekend, my body was completely numb, my skin was peeling, and my urine was dark yellow – it was the longest, most exhausting yet most exhilarating weekend I’ve had in a long time. *Sigh*
Great Wall Rave. Last weekend, I attended the annual Great Wall Party that usually draws a crowd of over three to four hundred eccentric young Beijing expats looking for a crazy night at an unconventional venue. Imagine the Great Wall, a beach, a dance party, techno music combined with all the sinful happenings of today’s youth fused together for one night of insidious bliss. Personally, I had more fun pre-partying on the four hour bus ride on the way up defined by karaoke, baijiu (Chinese liquor) guzzling, and random stops at rest stops with enormous neon signs that said “TOILET”. At the beach (where the Great Wall ends) I vaguely remember hotdogs, blue face paint, and a monsoon type rain storm – all other disreputable details I may have witnessed in this haven of hedonistic havoc will not be disclosed on this blog. It was a blast, but let’s just say that I’m glad to be back in reality.
Not Ready. Yesterday, about to get on the subway, a security woman said something to me (in Chinese) and pointed at the X-ray machine indicating that they wanted to check my bag for explosives or other harmful materials. I smiled (already late for work) and walked past her. Beefing up security seems useless if dangerous folk could voluntarily opt out of the screening process. A little while later, about to get off the metro, I and my fellow commuters were stuck in our subway while it took 10 minutes for the driver to figure out how to open the doors. People were so mad that some threatened to break down the door. Is Beijing prepared for the Olympics? Ha.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
The Egg
Sometimes, a journey is as interesting as the destination, and that's what French architect Paul Andreu has designed for the China National Grand Theatre: An artistic ambience on the way to a show. Walk across the greenery at the west of Tiananmen Square step down 7 meters and enter an 80-m-long underground gallery with a bright glass roof where water ripples overhead. At the end of the gallery is a huge lobby, probably the largest in a theatre anywhere in the world. From the window, you can see the clouds in the sky and the traffic on Chang'an Avenue to the north. It leads to the magnificent Opera House with 2,398 seats. The concert hall which can seat 2,019 is on the east and the theater with a capacity of 1,035 is on the west.
Nicknamed “the egg”, this recent addition to Beijing’s cityscape has not come to fruition without controversy. The location of this avant-garde bubbly structure lays adjacent to the monolithic Stanlist-style Great Hall of the People. Additionally, the surrounding hutongs clash with the egg’s sleek exterior – a perfect juxtaposition demonstrating China’s growing pains as it tries to conserve the old while making way for the new.
Recently I went to China’s newly constructed national theater to see Swan Lake performed by the Swedish Royal Ballet Company. I was heavy-eyed walking in, but due to the sheer excitement of visiting one of Beijing’s most extravagant buildings compounded by the fact that I had never seen an authentic ballet before, I am proud to say that I didn’t even sleep a wink. The experience was unique, the venue was breathtaking, and the ballet was interesting – a cultured young man I am becoming, indeed.
But here comes my two cents…
Firstly, the seats were too small, even smaller than the seats on China Eastern’s planes, the ugly duckling of all Chinese airlines. It’s simply criminal to construct a state-of-the-art national theater but fail to make the seats big enough - another example of how the “big picture” trumps individual satisfaction in this frustrating holistic society. On the bright side, the agony in my knees and angles kept me from getting too comfortable during the slow scenes.
Secondly, the concession counter was a mess. Nothing was refrigerated, there was only one menu and one cash register, and most of the items were unavailable. Perhaps this will all change in time considering that this performance hall is still working out the kinks, but I would hope that they spend a little more money and effort on trying to enhance the services within the facility.
Lastly, I always enjoyed going to the theater, ballet or opera chiefly because it felt like a special occasion, but also because it was an excuse to wear formal attire and mingle with the intelligentsia of society. Go to Carnegie Hall or the Kennedy Center and you will see people in tuxedos and gowns treating the event in an almost ceremonial way. In China, the people in the audience at these performances (although upper class) often wear flip-flops, shorts, and sometimes wife beaters. Naturally, Westerners that attend would be well dressed. This striking difference demonstrates the culture clashes that still exist between China and the West. Not so long ago, Communist leaders held meetings in their underwear while most women had only seen dresses from Eastern European films. The accepted standards and tenets of proper etiquette, contemporary civility, and even chivalry are all concepts that have been discussed and debated in every American college classroom for as long as I know – and how they are perceived in a Chinese context is too complex for today’s post. But, to get to the point, I find the way the Chinese treat the ballet detracts from its overall charm – perhaps, they may be more suited for Lion King on Ice.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Hangzhou - Part 2
SUNDAY
After catching up on some much needed sleep, we left the hotel in late morning and had the taxi driver drop us off on the south-east corner of the lake. As expected, tourists were out and about in full numbers and although people had warned me off their overwhelming presence in Hangzhou, it seemed very natural to me – after living in China long enough, the masses become unexceptional.
Starting at 10:30 am we began our extensive stroll around the massive West Lake. The haze had made the opposite side of the lake disappear, thus adding a mystical appeal as you looked across into an infinite vaporous void. Along the lake, there were walkways, lush parks, sporadic pagodas, small food vendors, and many places where one could set sail in boats of all sizes – ranging from large tour boats to those you paddle with your feet. I can not express how divine it was to meander around these dewy parks, go stone hopping down uncharted brooks, and imagine that you were in fact surrounded by endless wilderness. The Chinese tourists are not known explorers, mainly sticking to the beaten paths, following guides with loudspeakers, or taking full advantage of shuttle golf carts that almost ran me into the lake more than a few times that day. I also found these tourists exceptionally interested in the most mundane of wildlife – I can not count how many times I saw people photographing a frog or a squirrel.
As we headed north we found that a few commercial establishments had somehow acquired waterfront property, including a cluster of modern and trendy eateries and coffee shops, an Indian restaurant, and a high-end hotel that forced the lakeside pathway to become a boardwalk around the property. This boardwalk had no rails and would not have seemed that treacherous if not for the hundreds of people marching on it in both directions – I am certain that a least one pour soul falls into the water every day.
Eventually, we made it to where the lake and Nanshan Road practically intersect and where a large commercial area begins. A development facing the lake, called One West, houses a few patio bars and number of luxury-brand outlets such as Armani, Zara, and Gucci. In terms of high-end retail, Hangzhou is on par with Beijing and given the socio-economic contrast, I am fairly surprised. The retail industry in Hangzhou has experienced a major transformation in the last few years and according to the billboards that surround empty lots, many more retail properties will be entering the market in the coming years. The most logical rationale explaining this phenomenon is that the tourism industry has considerably accelerated its prime retail markets in West Hangzhou.
At this point, we had reached the north-east tip of the lake, and were determined to continue the trek. We walked over a long causeway that was connected to an island with teahouses, over-priced restaurants, and a museum. After making it back to shore, we finally decided to grab some lunch. At a small but raucous xiaochi (eatery) we let our legs rest for a while as he consumed local dishes and Xihu Pijiu (West Lake beer).
With satisfied stomachs we left the lake and took a bus into the woods until arriving at the bottom of a valley where the Lingyun Temple (The Temple of Soul’s Retreat) had been built1,600 years ago by an Indian monk. The Lingyin Temple is without a doubt a premier showpiece in the West Lake environs and is notable also as one of the ten most famous Buddhist temples in China. The Lingyin Temple received it name from its tranquil surroundings provided by forested hills on three sides. Walking up the narrow valley to the temple, we were also treated with dozens of Buddhist rock carving along the cliffs and in the caves. The trails that lead to many of these impressive ancient works of art were slick and high up – a precarious future for anyone who dared to have a gander. The temple itself is probably the most extraordinary Buddhist temple I have seen in China, and believe me folks, I have seen more than I can count. I suppose the grand halls, the caldrons of fire (to light prayer sticks) and the massive golden statutes are to be expected. I, however, loved how this temple ascended the mountain with each massive hall looking over the last and the striking coexistence of nature and the temple as they seemed as one up in the trees. After living in a sometimes drab Beijing, this natural beauty reminiscent of home (minus the bamboo) combined with the spiritual overtones was just what the doctor had ordered.
On the bus ride back to the hotel, we passed through some amazingly beautiful country, especially in the valleys that grow Longjing Tea (a very famous brand of tea in China). Much of this area was rather secluded despite a few tourist traps (like the Longjing tea village) and given the opportunity to return to Hangzhou, I would definitely like to go hiking through the hills and valleys of this region. Before reaching the hotel, we stopped to take a quiet walk in a park full of cottages, broad slopping lawns and a pond that perfectly reflected the regal rolling hills from above – if my memory serves me correctly, this land once belonged to a British lord. Finally, after 8 hours of exploring the beauties of Hangzhou, we went back to our resort for a little rest and relaxation.
At the appropriate hour we returned to the city to see what Hangzhou had to offer in terms of nightlife. After checking out dozens of options, including a few interesting waterfront restaurants in a complex called Xihu Tiandi (West Lake Heaven on Earth) and after walking nearly the length of the lake (again) we found the perfect venue to satiate our appetites and the perfect food including fish, an array of well-prepared local dishes, and Qiandao Pijiu (One Thousand Island Beer) – a local beer slightly more alcoholic than water. We sat on the third floor of this lavish restaurant taking in the accomplishments of the day. To reward ourselves further, we stopped by a few bars on the way home: an up-scale patio bar next to the Armani store, a salsa bar, and a live-music/sports bar that ended up being the most fun. It was nice to hang out at a Chinese bar for once, listen to Chinese rock songs, and feel like a part of the community (not a subset). Certainly venues like this exist in Beijing, however, they are few and far between. And while the majority of social events still happen around the dinner table, the younger generation is transforming rapidly, and as shown here in a Hangzhou dive bar, drinking games, rock shows, and large screens showing football (soccer) games is the future of Chinese nightlife. My girlfriend and I found this bar most enjoyable, but when we both realized we don't care much for the teams in the European Cup, we made for the door.
Hangzhou exceeded my expectations and is truly worthy of the label “Heaven on Earth” or as the ancient Chinese saying goes:
“Above is heaven, below is Hangzhou”
After catching up on some much needed sleep, we left the hotel in late morning and had the taxi driver drop us off on the south-east corner of the lake. As expected, tourists were out and about in full numbers and although people had warned me off their overwhelming presence in Hangzhou, it seemed very natural to me – after living in China long enough, the masses become unexceptional.
Starting at 10:30 am we began our extensive stroll around the massive West Lake. The haze had made the opposite side of the lake disappear, thus adding a mystical appeal as you looked across into an infinite vaporous void. Along the lake, there were walkways, lush parks, sporadic pagodas, small food vendors, and many places where one could set sail in boats of all sizes – ranging from large tour boats to those you paddle with your feet. I can not express how divine it was to meander around these dewy parks, go stone hopping down uncharted brooks, and imagine that you were in fact surrounded by endless wilderness. The Chinese tourists are not known explorers, mainly sticking to the beaten paths, following guides with loudspeakers, or taking full advantage of shuttle golf carts that almost ran me into the lake more than a few times that day. I also found these tourists exceptionally interested in the most mundane of wildlife – I can not count how many times I saw people photographing a frog or a squirrel.
As we headed north we found that a few commercial establishments had somehow acquired waterfront property, including a cluster of modern and trendy eateries and coffee shops, an Indian restaurant, and a high-end hotel that forced the lakeside pathway to become a boardwalk around the property. This boardwalk had no rails and would not have seemed that treacherous if not for the hundreds of people marching on it in both directions – I am certain that a least one pour soul falls into the water every day.
Eventually, we made it to where the lake and Nanshan Road practically intersect and where a large commercial area begins. A development facing the lake, called One West, houses a few patio bars and number of luxury-brand outlets such as Armani, Zara, and Gucci. In terms of high-end retail, Hangzhou is on par with Beijing and given the socio-economic contrast, I am fairly surprised. The retail industry in Hangzhou has experienced a major transformation in the last few years and according to the billboards that surround empty lots, many more retail properties will be entering the market in the coming years. The most logical rationale explaining this phenomenon is that the tourism industry has considerably accelerated its prime retail markets in West Hangzhou.
At this point, we had reached the north-east tip of the lake, and were determined to continue the trek. We walked over a long causeway that was connected to an island with teahouses, over-priced restaurants, and a museum. After making it back to shore, we finally decided to grab some lunch. At a small but raucous xiaochi (eatery) we let our legs rest for a while as he consumed local dishes and Xihu Pijiu (West Lake beer).
With satisfied stomachs we left the lake and took a bus into the woods until arriving at the bottom of a valley where the Lingyun Temple (The Temple of Soul’s Retreat) had been built1,600 years ago by an Indian monk. The Lingyin Temple is without a doubt a premier showpiece in the West Lake environs and is notable also as one of the ten most famous Buddhist temples in China. The Lingyin Temple received it name from its tranquil surroundings provided by forested hills on three sides. Walking up the narrow valley to the temple, we were also treated with dozens of Buddhist rock carving along the cliffs and in the caves. The trails that lead to many of these impressive ancient works of art were slick and high up – a precarious future for anyone who dared to have a gander. The temple itself is probably the most extraordinary Buddhist temple I have seen in China, and believe me folks, I have seen more than I can count. I suppose the grand halls, the caldrons of fire (to light prayer sticks) and the massive golden statutes are to be expected. I, however, loved how this temple ascended the mountain with each massive hall looking over the last and the striking coexistence of nature and the temple as they seemed as one up in the trees. After living in a sometimes drab Beijing, this natural beauty reminiscent of home (minus the bamboo) combined with the spiritual overtones was just what the doctor had ordered.
On the bus ride back to the hotel, we passed through some amazingly beautiful country, especially in the valleys that grow Longjing Tea (a very famous brand of tea in China). Much of this area was rather secluded despite a few tourist traps (like the Longjing tea village) and given the opportunity to return to Hangzhou, I would definitely like to go hiking through the hills and valleys of this region. Before reaching the hotel, we stopped to take a quiet walk in a park full of cottages, broad slopping lawns and a pond that perfectly reflected the regal rolling hills from above – if my memory serves me correctly, this land once belonged to a British lord. Finally, after 8 hours of exploring the beauties of Hangzhou, we went back to our resort for a little rest and relaxation.
At the appropriate hour we returned to the city to see what Hangzhou had to offer in terms of nightlife. After checking out dozens of options, including a few interesting waterfront restaurants in a complex called Xihu Tiandi (West Lake Heaven on Earth) and after walking nearly the length of the lake (again) we found the perfect venue to satiate our appetites and the perfect food including fish, an array of well-prepared local dishes, and Qiandao Pijiu (One Thousand Island Beer) – a local beer slightly more alcoholic than water. We sat on the third floor of this lavish restaurant taking in the accomplishments of the day. To reward ourselves further, we stopped by a few bars on the way home: an up-scale patio bar next to the Armani store, a salsa bar, and a live-music/sports bar that ended up being the most fun. It was nice to hang out at a Chinese bar for once, listen to Chinese rock songs, and feel like a part of the community (not a subset). Certainly venues like this exist in Beijing, however, they are few and far between. And while the majority of social events still happen around the dinner table, the younger generation is transforming rapidly, and as shown here in a Hangzhou dive bar, drinking games, rock shows, and large screens showing football (soccer) games is the future of Chinese nightlife. My girlfriend and I found this bar most enjoyable, but when we both realized we don't care much for the teams in the European Cup, we made for the door.
Hangzhou exceeded my expectations and is truly worthy of the label “Heaven on Earth” or as the ancient Chinese saying goes:
“Above is heaven, below is Hangzhou”
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Hangzhou - Part 1
Last Sunday, the Chinese celebrated a traditional festival called Duanwu Jie – or Dragon Boat Festival. The most widely accepted version of the origin of this holiday is that it commemorates the death of poet Qu Yuan, who rose to fame during in the Warring States Period of the Zhou Dynasty. A descendant of Chu royalty, when the king allied with the rival state of Qin, Qu Yuan was banished for his vocal opposition of the alliance. Throughout his exile, Qu Yuan wrote a great deal of poetry, and when the Qin eventually conquered his beloved Chu capital, Qu Yuan committed suicide by drowning himself in the Miluo River on the fifth day of the fifth month of the traditional lunar calendar, which falls on June 8 this year. When villagers took their boats out into the river to collect his body, they would throw zongzi (a Chinese food made of glutinous rice stuffed with different fillings and wrapped in bamboo leaves) into the river to ward of the hungry fish from eating Qu’s body.
The three most widespread activities for the Duanwu Festival are preparing and eating zongzi, drinking realgar wine, and racing dragon boats. Some also adorn their house with images of guardian Zhong Kui, hang up mugwort, take long walks, and wear perfumed medicine bags, leading some modern researchers to conclude that the holiday was superimposed upon an ancient traditional holiday designed to ward off summer disease and evil.
Because this year marks the commencement of a new holiday schedule, which saw the shortening of the Golden Week period in early May, and the addition of several shorter holidays throughout the year, although Dragon Boat Festival fell on a Sunday this year, Monday became a public holiday. The festival has certainly been popular for a very long time, and is celebrated in various forms throughout many Asian countries. Now that it is an official holiday in China, it may rise in significance, though not perhaps for the reasons intended.
Taking advantage of every public holiday they throw at us, my girlfriend and I decided to spend the three day weekend in the city of Hangzhou – a city a few hours west of Shanghai, known as the starting point for China’s Grand Canal (one of the eight ancient wonders of the world), and a place unanimously described in state-run TV commercials as “the most beautiful city in China.”
SATURDAY
After a two hour flight, we arrived in Hangzhou on a misty Saturday morning. I hate early flights, especially after a long rigorous week, even if they are cheaper. From the Hangzhou airport which had just started constructing an adjacent terminal, we jumped into a pink taxi (a horse of a different color) and headed north into the center city. On the way in, I noticed run-down neighborhoods half resembling the less modern parts of Shanghai that are covered by 3-4 story traditional linong buildings (analogous to Beijing’s hutongs) and half resembling the ghetto along the tracks in Bridgeport, Connecticut. Once we approached the river, however, large office buildings and brand-new apartment complexes appeared – undoubtedly a section of the city that was nothing but grass fields only a few years ago. After crossing the surging Qiantang River and navigating through a few valleys and tunnels, we finally made it to our picturesque hotel resort.
The location of our hotel was just south of Hangzhou’s famed West Lake where the urban landscape to the east gives way to lush rolling hills and tea farms in the west. We had received ominous weather forecasts for the weekend but were nevertheless determined to make the best of it. While eating lunch at a small rural restaurant on the road, a short thunderstorm passed over. Luckily these flashes of rain did very little to hamper our plans since they never lasted for more than 30 minutes – of course, the darkness and wetness that characterized the weekend restricted us from fully capturing Hangzhou’s beauty in a photographic sense at least.
After mapping out the day, we walked to the end of the road to catch a bus into town. I was surprised to find myself using the buses frequently throughout the weekend. In Beijing, I try to avoid buses in every possible way since most are packed like clown cars without sufficient air supply and with passengers who have never used deodorant. Hangzhou buses, on the other hand, were properly ventilated, often had open seats, and the drivers were more often than not gregarious and informative. The biggest problem we had with the buses was producing the exact change for the 2 kuai rides. Because many tier two and tier three cities like Hangzhou are still in the habit of using 1 kuai coins, I would learn to collect them in my pocket just for future bus fares – but more than once we had no choice but to put a larger bill in the slot.
Heading north along the eastside of the lake, we were able to capture the splendor of the most pleasant road in Hangzhou, Nanshan Road. This curvy tree-lined road is like nothing found in Beijing, radiating charm with its many quaint coffee shops, restaurants and European-style buildings while the shade from its trees gives this area along the West Lake the allure of a tranquil summer sanctuary.
As we veered off Nanshan Road into more hectic commercial neighborhoods, I was finding Hangzhou’s streets more vibrant that Beijing’s. Because Beijing is a “suburban city” of sorts, a vast metropolitan divided by wide avenues and walls and where walking to most places in the city is considered inconceivable, the street life lacks the pulsating and fast-paced culture characteristic of mega-cities. In cities like Shanghai, New York and even Hangzhou where there are many layers of society that are crammed together to make for a more dynamic urban sprawl, sidewalks are flooded with people from all walks of life, office buildings are accessible from the street (not inside a compound with a driveway), and your apartment building has a doorman (not a gate keeper). Even though I love Beijing for its other qualities I am not a fan of its daqi (grandiose atmosphere) and personally prefer any city that resembles the electricity produced in the Big Apple – but that’s just me.
Eventually we made our way to the ferry (or river bus if translated into English) on one of Hangzhou’s many canals. This commuter vessel only stops at a handful of stations, but for out-of-towners like ourselves, we found much pleasure in just taking it for a ride through this remarkable city. We saw teahouses galore, waterside parks, traditional Chinese arching bridges, and of course developments being erected everywhere. Traffic on the canal is mainly attributed to long flat freight boats that transport coal and other minerals from one side of the city to the other. The men on these long slabs of iron were entertaining, often perched in front with nothing but tighty whiteys on while washing the remainder of their clothes in a bucket.
After hitting the last stop on the circuit, we walked through some of parks and over some of the bridges we had seen on the way upstream. Although the rain had seemed to be letting up, we were starving and immediately took a bus back to the main commercial drag closer to the lake. After perusing the block and discussing our options, we decided upon a restaurant that didn't need a menu – you could literally walk up to the few dozen buckets and baskets downstairs and point at random sea creatures, vegetables, and parts of chickens (like the feet). We eventually ordered green beans, asparagus, and a big lake fish (that came with Hangzhou’s special sauce). Although the fish was delicious, it was extremely hard to eat considering how tiny the bones are to avoid in fresh water fish.
Eating my fish on a makeshift rooftop patio while soaking in Hangzhou was definitely how I had envisioned the weekend, but halfway through thee meal, Hangzhou starting soaking us. Actually, due to a large table umbrella we were protected for the most part, but when this torrential monsoon-like shower started pounding the ground, it felt like it was raining from below us. Since living in China, I have never seen it rain so heavily and so violently. Living in a dry city like Beijing, we would be lucky to see that much rainfall in a whole month or two or three.
After eating a large bowl of noodles while waiting for the rain to stop, we made a quick exit, got on a bus and headed back to the warmth and comfort of our huge hotel room. It was a long day and even a longer day was to follow – after watching a few music videos of Channel V (China's MTV) I dozed off.
To be continued…..
The three most widespread activities for the Duanwu Festival are preparing and eating zongzi, drinking realgar wine, and racing dragon boats. Some also adorn their house with images of guardian Zhong Kui, hang up mugwort, take long walks, and wear perfumed medicine bags, leading some modern researchers to conclude that the holiday was superimposed upon an ancient traditional holiday designed to ward off summer disease and evil.
Because this year marks the commencement of a new holiday schedule, which saw the shortening of the Golden Week period in early May, and the addition of several shorter holidays throughout the year, although Dragon Boat Festival fell on a Sunday this year, Monday became a public holiday. The festival has certainly been popular for a very long time, and is celebrated in various forms throughout many Asian countries. Now that it is an official holiday in China, it may rise in significance, though not perhaps for the reasons intended.
Taking advantage of every public holiday they throw at us, my girlfriend and I decided to spend the three day weekend in the city of Hangzhou – a city a few hours west of Shanghai, known as the starting point for China’s Grand Canal (one of the eight ancient wonders of the world), and a place unanimously described in state-run TV commercials as “the most beautiful city in China.”
SATURDAY
After a two hour flight, we arrived in Hangzhou on a misty Saturday morning. I hate early flights, especially after a long rigorous week, even if they are cheaper. From the Hangzhou airport which had just started constructing an adjacent terminal, we jumped into a pink taxi (a horse of a different color) and headed north into the center city. On the way in, I noticed run-down neighborhoods half resembling the less modern parts of Shanghai that are covered by 3-4 story traditional linong buildings (analogous to Beijing’s hutongs) and half resembling the ghetto along the tracks in Bridgeport, Connecticut. Once we approached the river, however, large office buildings and brand-new apartment complexes appeared – undoubtedly a section of the city that was nothing but grass fields only a few years ago. After crossing the surging Qiantang River and navigating through a few valleys and tunnels, we finally made it to our picturesque hotel resort.
The location of our hotel was just south of Hangzhou’s famed West Lake where the urban landscape to the east gives way to lush rolling hills and tea farms in the west. We had received ominous weather forecasts for the weekend but were nevertheless determined to make the best of it. While eating lunch at a small rural restaurant on the road, a short thunderstorm passed over. Luckily these flashes of rain did very little to hamper our plans since they never lasted for more than 30 minutes – of course, the darkness and wetness that characterized the weekend restricted us from fully capturing Hangzhou’s beauty in a photographic sense at least.
After mapping out the day, we walked to the end of the road to catch a bus into town. I was surprised to find myself using the buses frequently throughout the weekend. In Beijing, I try to avoid buses in every possible way since most are packed like clown cars without sufficient air supply and with passengers who have never used deodorant. Hangzhou buses, on the other hand, were properly ventilated, often had open seats, and the drivers were more often than not gregarious and informative. The biggest problem we had with the buses was producing the exact change for the 2 kuai rides. Because many tier two and tier three cities like Hangzhou are still in the habit of using 1 kuai coins, I would learn to collect them in my pocket just for future bus fares – but more than once we had no choice but to put a larger bill in the slot.
Heading north along the eastside of the lake, we were able to capture the splendor of the most pleasant road in Hangzhou, Nanshan Road. This curvy tree-lined road is like nothing found in Beijing, radiating charm with its many quaint coffee shops, restaurants and European-style buildings while the shade from its trees gives this area along the West Lake the allure of a tranquil summer sanctuary.
As we veered off Nanshan Road into more hectic commercial neighborhoods, I was finding Hangzhou’s streets more vibrant that Beijing’s. Because Beijing is a “suburban city” of sorts, a vast metropolitan divided by wide avenues and walls and where walking to most places in the city is considered inconceivable, the street life lacks the pulsating and fast-paced culture characteristic of mega-cities. In cities like Shanghai, New York and even Hangzhou where there are many layers of society that are crammed together to make for a more dynamic urban sprawl, sidewalks are flooded with people from all walks of life, office buildings are accessible from the street (not inside a compound with a driveway), and your apartment building has a doorman (not a gate keeper). Even though I love Beijing for its other qualities I am not a fan of its daqi (grandiose atmosphere) and personally prefer any city that resembles the electricity produced in the Big Apple – but that’s just me.
Eventually we made our way to the ferry (or river bus if translated into English) on one of Hangzhou’s many canals. This commuter vessel only stops at a handful of stations, but for out-of-towners like ourselves, we found much pleasure in just taking it for a ride through this remarkable city. We saw teahouses galore, waterside parks, traditional Chinese arching bridges, and of course developments being erected everywhere. Traffic on the canal is mainly attributed to long flat freight boats that transport coal and other minerals from one side of the city to the other. The men on these long slabs of iron were entertaining, often perched in front with nothing but tighty whiteys on while washing the remainder of their clothes in a bucket.
After hitting the last stop on the circuit, we walked through some of parks and over some of the bridges we had seen on the way upstream. Although the rain had seemed to be letting up, we were starving and immediately took a bus back to the main commercial drag closer to the lake. After perusing the block and discussing our options, we decided upon a restaurant that didn't need a menu – you could literally walk up to the few dozen buckets and baskets downstairs and point at random sea creatures, vegetables, and parts of chickens (like the feet). We eventually ordered green beans, asparagus, and a big lake fish (that came with Hangzhou’s special sauce). Although the fish was delicious, it was extremely hard to eat considering how tiny the bones are to avoid in fresh water fish.
Eating my fish on a makeshift rooftop patio while soaking in Hangzhou was definitely how I had envisioned the weekend, but halfway through thee meal, Hangzhou starting soaking us. Actually, due to a large table umbrella we were protected for the most part, but when this torrential monsoon-like shower started pounding the ground, it felt like it was raining from below us. Since living in China, I have never seen it rain so heavily and so violently. Living in a dry city like Beijing, we would be lucky to see that much rainfall in a whole month or two or three.
After eating a large bowl of noodles while waiting for the rain to stop, we made a quick exit, got on a bus and headed back to the warmth and comfort of our huge hotel room. It was a long day and even a longer day was to follow – after watching a few music videos of Channel V (China's MTV) I dozed off.
To be continued…..
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)